frequently asked
questions
  • What does laminating mean?
  • answer: The term "Laminating" in regards to traps, is the process of adding a thicker jaw to a stock trap, by means of
    either welding, riveting, or bolting together the two separate pieces.
  • Why "laminate", or add a thicker jaw to a trap?
  • answer: The MAIN reason behind adding a thicker jaw to a stock trap is to reduce foot or leg damage to the animal
    trapped. We as trappers need to act responsibly and use equipment that will hold the animal safe and unharmed, for
    either our target species, or non-targets. Another benefit of adding a thicker jaw is the fact that it increases the rigidity
    of the jaw itself, allowing for little to no flexing, or popping of the jaws out of the frame.
  • Does laminating slow the trap down? And do I need to 4 coil my traps?
  • answer: Yes. Any weight added to the jaws will slow it down. The remedy lies in finding the perfect balance in power
    and speed. On a small trap (1.75 on down) all that is typically needed is to change from stock springs to a music wire
    spring of equal size or one size larger. On #2's on up, 4 coiling is the way to go to achieve the kind of speed and power
    needed to overcome the added weight. 4 coiled traps w/o thicker jaws will cause leg damage.
  • Why baseplate?
  • answer: To increase the strength of the traps frame. Without baseplates an animal that fights as hard as a coyote, can
    bend the frame, thus popping the jaws loose, letting the animal escape. Center swiveling the trap helps in reducing foot
    damage as well. End swiveling the baseplate is mainly used by water trappers who set hundreds of traps on their knees
    wearing waders. Set up on the end, your leg will be a lot less sore. And your chain will not be under the trap, which aids
    in bedding the trap as well.
  • What do you think is the most important modification to a trap?
  • answer: Everything that I offer in my Services page I do for my own traps, because I can, and I feel it's important to
    have the best equipment you can afford. If I could only afford one thing, I would have to say that swivels are the most
    important modification (good swivels, not stock) 3 per trap in my opinion. Without a good swiveling action, all the mods
    in the world won't help. Next in line would be to night latch the dog of the trap for a minimal engagement, I use 1/16".
    And finally, pan tension. Pan tension should be measured, and be the same from one trap to the next for the species
    being trapped. Obviously, the tension for a Beaver is different than for a muskrat. Without pan tension you'll have more
    pull-outs, due to toe catches or paw damage.
  • What do you charge?
  • answer: I quote each job individually, it really depends on the condition of the traps being sent. Example: brand new
    Bridger #3's take way less time to modify than a rusty old low lever, square jaw Victor #3. If I have to do nothing to
    prepare the trap to weld, you'll be given the best rate.
  • What's your turn around time for 1 dozen totally modified Bridger #3's?
  • answer: Typically I have enough back logged work to be a month out, plan accordingly. Rush jobs are reserved for my
    best repeat customers, and I work overtime to complete them. Start to finish a #3 Bridger totally modified, from making
    baseplates and laminations, to the finished product all buffed out takes about two hours.
  • Why go through all the trouble of "lowering your pan" by drilling a new hole, when you can lower it by bending
    the frame where the dog attaches?
  • answer: LOL! You're right you can raise or lower the pan in regards to it being level or not with the jaws. But, the height
    is actually determined by where the bolt goes through the pan post and the shank of the pan, which can be altered by
    welding the existing hole, and redrilling a new one above it, which actually lowers the pan.
  • Can you increase or decrease my jaw spread?
  • answer: Yes. I have altered #4 Dbl Long Springs to be larger spreads, and decreased others to meet State jaw
    restrictions.
  • How do you normally ship?
  • answer: If possible I like using USPS Flat Rate boxes. If in the midwest Speedy Delivery is another cheap option.
    Otherwise UPS ground. Another option would be drop off or pick up at conventions.
  • How do you get your jaw face smooth like that? A mill or a grinder?
  • answer: 4 1/2" hand grinder with flap wheels, or a rubber backed grinding disc.
  • I tried doing that and I end up with about a 1/16" offset after grinding. How do I keep that from happening?
  • answer: Tack weld the jaw face first, making sure that the jaw and the lam strip are flush with each other. Then weld
    your three welds on the back. Let it cool to room temperature! Then weld jaw face solid, with as small of a bead as
    possible. Grind back, making certain you are square to the original jaw face. Break any sharp edges with a good mill
    file, or a hand sanding block.
  • What kind of welder do you use?
  • answer: A MILLER 252 Mig welder, shielded with 75/25 gas, and .024 wire, another MILLER is set up with .035 wire
    and a MILLER GOLDSTAR is used for Tig/Stick welding.